Spaccanapoli and San Gregorio Armeno: the street of nativity scenes

If we had to choose just one walk to understand Naples, it would be this one: Spaccanapoli, the long straight street that cuts the old town in two, and San Gregorio Armeno, the street of nativity scenes where it is Christmas all year round. Workshops, noble palaces, churches, squares, voices and aromas: in a few hundred metres you find the whole soul of the city. And from Phaedra House it is just a few minutes' walk.

Why it is called Spaccanapoli

Spaccanapoli is the popular name of the decumano inferiore, one of the three main parallel streets of the Greek and Roman city. Seen from above, for example from the hill of San Martino, it is clearly visible: a straight line that "splits" (spacca) the historic centre in two. Along the way it changes name several times, from Via Benedetto Croce to Via San Biagio dei Librai, but to everyone it remains Spaccanapoli. The historic centre of Naples has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1995.

From Piazza del Gesù to Via San Biagio dei Librai

[foto da caricare] Spaccanapoli seen from above

The most beautiful way to walk it is to start from Piazza del Gesù, with the spire of the Immacolata and the diamond-point façade of the Gesù Nuovo, and head east:

• Santa Chiara: right after the square, with its majolica cloister, a moment of silence amid the voices of the street.
• Piazza San Domenico Maggiore: with its Baroque spire, the great Gothic church and the noble palaces around it. From here, a few steps take you to the Sansevero Chapel and the Veiled Christ.
• Largo Corpo di Napoli: with the ancient statue of the god Nile, affectionately known by Neapolitans as "the body of Naples".
• Via San Biagio dei Librai: the street of booksellers and craftsmen, with small shops, workshops, old bookstores and shops full of curiosities.

We describe the churches along the way in detail in our guide to the churches not to miss in the historic centre.

San Gregorio Armeno, the street of nativity scenes

[foto da caricare] The nativity workshops on Via San Gregorio Armeno

Between Spaccanapoli and Via dei Tribunali, a narrow uphill street links the two decumani: it is Via San Gregorio Armeno, famous all over the world for its workshops of Neapolitan nativity scene craftsmen. Here you will find hand-painted terracotta figures, cork houses, waterfalls, miniature markets, lights and everything you need to build a presepe. Alongside the traditional figures, every year the craftsmen create ironic figurines of celebrities, footballers and politicians: a very Neapolitan way of telling the news.

The Neapolitan nativity scene has a long history: in the 18th century it was a passion of the aristocracy and the Bourbon court, and the scenes of the Nativity filled up with daily life, taverns, merchants and musicians. An extraordinary example can be seen at the San Martino Museum, which we mention in our guide to the must-see museums of Naples.

Along the street there is also the San Gregorio Armeno complex, with a lavish Baroque church and a cloister that feels like a secret garden in the middle of the historic centre.

When to go

• All year round: the workshops are open in spring and summer too, and it is the quietest time to browse at leisure.
• From November to January: it is nativity season, and the street is full of lights and people. Beautiful, but very crowded, especially at weekends.
• Early in the morning: the best time to take photos and stroll without crowds.

Practical tips

• Keep an eye on your wallet as in any crowded place: at peak times the street is very busy.
• Ask before photographing workshops and craftsmen at work.
• If you buy a figurine, ask how to pack it for the journey: terracotta is fragile.
• Shop prices and opening hours change: for an important purchase, ask directly in the workshop.
• Take a tasty break: there is no shortage of sfogliatelle and coffee along the way. You will find ideas in our guide to street food in Naples.

What to buy: authentic souvenirs

Along Spaccanapoli and San Gregorio Armeno you will find some of the most typical souvenirs of the city:

• A nativity figurine: from the classic figure to a fantasy character, handmade and hand-painted.
• The lucky horn: red, long, pointed and preferably given as a gift, because according to tradition it only brings luck if you receive it.
• Books and antique prints: on Via San Biagio dei Librai and, a little further on, towards Port'Alba, the historic street of bookshops.
• Ceramics and small handmade objects: tiles, decorated plates, miniature nativity scenes.
• Food specialities: coffee, limoncello, taralli and packaged sweets for the journey.

Before buying an important handmade object, ask how it was made and by whom: in many workshops the craftsman is right there at the counter and happy to talk about the work.

The stories of the street

Spaccanapoli is full of details that tell the story of the city: the votive shrines on the corners of buildings, the courtyards that open behind huge doors, the laundry hanging between balconies. Look up often: many of the most beautiful things are above street level.

A loop walk from Phaedra House

A simple idea for an afternoon: from the apartment reach Via dei Tribunali, walk down San Gregorio Armeno, continue along Spaccanapoli to Piazza del Gesù and come back along Via dei Tribunali, perhaps stopping for a pizza. A couple of hours in all, stops included. If you want a full day, follow our itinerary Naples in one day.

Sleeping a stone's throw from the decumani

Phaedra House is in Piazzetta Sant'Arcangelo a Baiano, about 500 metres from Spaccanapoli and 400 metres from Via San Biagio dei Librai: you can head out early in the morning, when the nativity street is still quiet, and come back to rest when it fills up. Discover the apartment and see where we are.

For more ideas, browse the Neighbourhoods section of our guide.