The historic pizzerias of Naples near the Cathedral and Via dei Tribunali

Anyone arriving in Naples for the first time usually has just one question: where should I eat pizza? The best answer is a few steps from Phaedra House. Between the Cathedral, Via dei Tribunali and Forcella you'll find some of the oldest and best-loved pizzerias in the city, the ones that made the history of Neapolitan pizza. In this guide we tell you how to find your way, what to order and which historic addresses to know, in the spirit of people who have always lived and eaten here.

Neapolitan pizza in brief

[foto da caricare] Freshly baked pizza margherita

Neapolitan pizza is not just a dish: it's a craft. In 2017 the art of the Neapolitan pizzaiuolo was added to UNESCO's list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, and "Pizza Napoletana" is also recognised by the European Union as a traditional speciality guaranteed (TSG).

What makes it different? A simple dough (flour, water, salt and yeast) left to rise for a long time, stretched by hand only, and baked very quickly in a wood-fired oven at a very high temperature. The result is the famous cornicione, a high, soft, slightly charred crust, with a thin, moist centre. In Naples a soft centre is perfectly normal: you eat it with a knife and fork, or folded "like a booklet".

The two benchmark pizzas are:

• Marinara: tomato, garlic, oregano and extra virgin olive oil. No mozzarella, and it's the oldest.
• Margherita: tomato, mozzarella (fior di latte or buffalo), basil and oil. Legend has it that it was dedicated to Queen Margherita of Savoy in 1889: history or legend, it's the pizza nobody should skip.

Our tip: for your first pizza, order one of these two. It's the best way to understand the difference between one oven and another.

Via dei Tribunali, the street of pizza

[foto da caricare] Via dei Tribunali in the historic centre of Naples

Via dei Tribunali follows the route of the decumanus maior, the main street of the Greek and Roman city. Today it's a lively corridor of churches, shops, fry shops and pizzerias, a few minutes' walk from Phaedra House. Walking around at lunch or dinner time you'll see queues outside the most famous signs: it's part of the ritual.

Some practical tips that apply to all the historic pizzerias:

• Queues are normal, especially at weekends. You usually leave your name at the entrance and wait for your turn: service is fast and tables turn over quickly.
• Opening times and closing days change: before you go, check the official website or the venue's Google listing.
• Many pizzerias also do takeaway: a "pizza a portafoglio" eaten while walking along the decumanus is an experience in itself (more about it in our guide to street food in Naples).
• An early lunch or an early dinner are the best times to avoid the longest waits.

Five historic addresses to know

Here are some very well-known historic pizzerias, all in the old town or just next to it. It's not a ranking: these are addresses every Neapolitan knows, each with its own character.

L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele

In the Forcella neighbourhood, a stone's throw from the Cathedral, it's one of the most famous pizzerias in the world. It's known for its essential choice: it has always focused on just a few pizzas, starting with marinara and margherita. The atmosphere is simple, with marble tables and an oven that never stops. It's one of the closest to Phaedra House.

Gino e Toto Sorbillo

On Via dei Tribunali, it's one of the best-known names in contemporary Neapolitan pizza, born from a long family of pizza makers. Large pizzas, a generous crust and a menu that, alongside the classics, offers ingredients from small Campanian producers. It's often crowded: be patient.

Pizzeria Di Matteo

Also on Via dei Tribunali, it's famous for its fried pizza too, and for the fried snacks at the entrance, where you can get crocchè and frittatine to eat in the street. A historic address, popular with Neapolitans and travellers alike.

Antica Pizzeria Port'Alba

Under the Port'Alba arch, between Piazza Dante and the historic bookshops, it's considered one of the oldest pizzerias in Naples. A great stop if you're exploring the centre towards Piazza Bellini and Via Toledo.

Lombardi a Santa Chiara

On Via Benedetto Croce, the stretch of Spaccanapoli near the Santa Chiara complex, it's a long-established pizzeria with a dining room and table service: a convenient choice after visiting the majolica cloister.

For exact addresses, opening times, menus and reservations, always check the official website of each venue.

What to order (besides the margherita)

[foto da caricare] Neapolitan fried pizza

Once you've tried the classics, try:

• Fried pizza (pizza fritta): the dough is filled (for example with ricotta, cicoli and tomato, or with provola) and deep-fried. It's a tradition born in the working-class neighbourhoods and a complete meal.
• Pizza a portafoglio: a small pizza folded in four, to be eaten standing up. Cheap, quick and delicious.
• Montanara: a small disc of dough, fried and then finished in the oven with tomato and cheese.
• What to drink: water, a beer or a soft drink. Have your coffee afterwards, at the bar.

A few tips from your host

• Don't ask for complicated changes: in historic pizzerias the menu is short on purpose, and the classic recipe is their strength.
• Eat it straight away: Neapolitan pizza is at its best fresh from the oven. If you want to take something away, choose a pizza a portafoglio.
• Try different ovens: during a stay of a few days you can try two or three different pizzerias and find your favourite. It's the Neapolitans' favourite debate.
• Combine pizza and a stroll: after dinner, the illuminated old town, the Cathedral and the alleys of Forcella are just a few steps away.

Stay a stone's throw from the historic pizzerias

Phaedra House is in Piazzetta Sant'Arcangelo a Baiano, in the heart of the historic centre: the Cathedral, Via dei Tribunali and Forcella are a few minutes' walk away. After a pizza you can stroll back home, with no need for public transport or taxis. Discover the apartment and see where we are in relation to the most beautiful places in the centre.

You'll find more ideas for eating well in the Pizza and street food section of our guide.